The Highlands reward people who drive slowly. Distances on the map look short, but the roads wind, the views keep making you stop, and the weather can change three times before lunch. Allow more time than you think you need and the trip will be better for it.
Where to start
Most Highland road trips begin in Edinburgh or Glasgow. Glasgow puts you closer to Loch Lomond and the west coast from the first morning. Edinburgh is the better start if you want a night or two in the capital first, and it is an easy drive north through Stirling and Perthshire. Many routes start in one city and finish in the other, which avoids doubling back.
A suggested route
Loch Lomond and Glencoe
Leave Glasgow along the western shore of Loch Lomond, the largest stretch of fresh water in Britain. The road climbs over Rannoch Moor, wide and empty, before dropping into Glencoe. This is one of the most dramatic valleys in Scotland, and it carries the memory of the massacre of 1692. Stop at the visitor centre and take a short walk; even half an hour gives you a sense of the scale.
Fort William and the road to the isles
Fort William sits beneath Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK. From here the road west to Mallaig passes the Glenfinnan Viaduct, familiar from the films, and some of the finest coastal scenery in the country.
Eilean Donan and the Isle of Skye
Heading north towards Kyle of Lochalsh, you pass Eilean Donan Castle on its island at the meeting of three lochs. It is one of the most photographed castles in Scotland, and worth a proper visit. The Skye Bridge then takes you over to the island. Plan at least two nights on Skye: the Quiraing, the Old Man of Storr, the Fairy Pools and the harbour town of Portree are all spread out, and the roads are slow.
Inverness and Loch Ness
From Skye, the road east follows the Great Glen to Loch Ness and Inverness, the Highland capital. Urquhart Castle, on the loch shore, is the classic stop. Inverness itself is small and friendly, with the river running through the centre and good restaurants.
The Cairngorms and back south
The return journey can run through the Cairngorms National Park, with its pine forests, the town of Aviemore and the chance of red squirrels and reindeer. Or head back west to Oban, the seafood town on the coast, with ferries out to Mull and the islands.
Some travellers add the North Coast 500, the long loop around the far north from Inverness. It is spectacular but needs several extra days to do well, so treat it as a trip of its own rather than a detour.
Driving in the Highlands
- Drive on the left. If you are not used to it, the first hour on quiet roads is the best place to adjust.
- Single-track roads. Many roads in the west and on Skye are one lane wide, with passing places marked by signs. Pull into a passing place on your left to let oncoming traffic by, or wait opposite one on your right. Let faster drivers overtake; locals will thank you with a wave.
- Fuel. Petrol stations can be far apart in remote areas. Fill up when you can.
- Wildlife and livestock. Sheep and deer on the road are common, especially at dusk.
When to go
May and June bring long days and often the driest weather of the year. July and August are warmer but busier, and accommodation on Skye can be full months ahead. September is lovely, with autumn colour starting and fewer visitors.
Summer also brings midges, the tiny biting insects of the west coast. They are worst on still, damp evenings. A good repellent and a breeze both help. In winter the midges disappear, but daylight shrinks to around seven hours in December, and some roads and attractions close or reduce their hours.
Book Skye early
If there is one thing to book first, it is your accommodation on the Isle of Skye. There are fewer rooms than visitors in summer, and the island is not a place to arrive without a bed for the night.
Prefer not to drive?
A road trip is not the only way to see the Highlands. We run day tours from Inverness to the Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan, and from Glasgow and Edinburgh to Loch Lomond, Glencoe and Oban. The Best of Scotland rail tour lets the train take the strain, with some of the most scenic lines in Britain.
Our self-drive tours include a Scotland route from Edinburgh to Glasgow with the hotels arranged, or you can ask us to plan one around your own pace.
